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West Java
THE PARAHYANGAN LAND
Most tourists entering Indonesia through Jakarta usually continued their travel straight to Central Java and Yogyakarta, and even further on to Bali.
This however, is an unfair treatment to west Java, Tanah Parahyangan or the Parahyangan Land. This province is rich in green tourism object. For the eco tourists West Java is very proud of its National Park of Ujung Kulon, where the Java Rhino (Rhinoceros Sondaicus) still roams in the western most tip of Java.
You still have many other places to visit here in West Java. The Banten region, where you can still find the remnants of the Banten sultanate. Or Pangandaran, a beach resort very near and adjacent to a lush green nature conservation. In Bogor you can make a short visit to its Botanic Garden, with the most complete tropical floral collection in the world.
On top of what you can visit in the whole province of West Java is it capital, the ‘Paris of Java’, the nickname during the Dutch colonial era. West Java is also known as Tanah Sunda (of Sunda Land), which very proud of its Gede Pangrango, twin mountains covered with lush vegetation, the most loved domain for youth tourists who are fond of mountains climbing.
Though Puncak on your from Jakarta, one can enjoy a variety of landscape through the long and winding road up to the mountains, where tea plantation and green mountainous beauty are typical vistas not often found in the other parts of Java.
Since hundreds of years through its history, the Sundanese have developed a strong culture of their own, even predates the great empires of the East. Historically West Java can be retraced through its earliest written record found in West Java, an inscribed stone, dating from around 415 A.D., written in Sanskrit. It records the royal presence of Purnawarman, the king of Tarumanegara, which suggest an Indianised ruler, one of the first in Indonesia. Though there is a wide gap in West Java’s recorded history for the next thousand years.
As the Islamic city ports gained control of the northern coast, from Pasuruan in the east to Banten in the west, Pajajaran emerged for a brief moment of history’s spotlight. The kingdom of Pajajaran was located in the hills around Bogor, with a secondary town and port at Sunda Kelapa. Most probably the rulers of Pajajaran were forced inland by the growth of the Muslim coastal states during the 15th century.
Within a hundred years the kingdom was destroyed, over run by the forces of the Banten Sultanate. The history of West Java, however, has left few tracks on the rugged landscape, adding very little to the list of tourist attractions.
Sunda remains a place for nature lovers and backpackers, with now ready to cater upper and middle class tourist, who usually prefer to stay in first class deluxe hotels.
To attract more tourists, the so called Banten Festival is held annually. For the first time it was held on August 27 to September 3, 1994. Hoping that foreign and domestic tourists can be lured to enjoy the fascinating atmosphere of Banten, the westernmost region of West Java, the festival takes place in the old Banten complexes, the Carita Beach, the Ujung Kulon Beach, with various activities including arts and cultures, allegorical parade, traditional boat race, sea festivals, beach volley ball, Carita fun bike, Badui cross country, Banten overland and Krakatau tour.
At the old Banten area we can still find the archaeological remains originating from the Islamic Banten kingdom from the 16th to the 18th centuries. The Banten historical artifacts have been collected for historical research and archaeological excavations have been organized in the front yard of the Surosowan palace.
Since the middle of the 17th century, Banten was penetrated by the Dutch influence. During the 17th century, Banten experienced trade and cultural progress. Many foreigners, mainly others Asians, have had relationship with the Banten kingdom.
In 1616 the Gujaratees became the liaison officials between the foreign traders and the Banten kingdom. At that time, every year many Chinese boats harboring at Banten. Generally they operated barter trading with pepper as the main means of exchange.
During the 18th and 19th centuries Banten was very much concerned and disagreed to the way the Dutch deal with the Sultanate of Banten. As its consequence the fighters and guirrellas of Banten based in the forest areas in the southern part of Banten ambushed the Dutch troops going to Batavia to transport spices and other trade commodities from Banten.
For around 400 years, Banten was a princely state of great wealth and splendor. The name Banten still covers that great area, but the glory has long faded. The present day town of Banten, far from being a splendid city, is now little more than a few picturesque ruins, masses of coconut palms and strings of shabby, tiny villages lining tidal creeks and canals.
The first Europeans to visit Banten were the Portuguese, arriving early in the 16th century when the great Javanese commander Faletehan under the command of the Sultan of Demak, was completing his conquest of the area. Banten rapidly grew stronger and important, defeating and finally dispersing the Hindu forces of Padjajaran who sought refuge from Islam in the rugged hills and mountains to the southwest of Bogor, and around the port of Sunda Kelapa.
The grip of Banten on the enter port pepper trade was the source of its wealth, some of the pepper grew within Banten, but most came from Sumatra, and by Portuguese were granted limited trading rights, more than 1,500 tons of the precious spice were living Banten every year in ships bound for India and China. This was Banten’s short glory, its brief century long became a small part of the Indonesian history.
Banten at that time was almost synonymous with the archipelago, and in many maps and European travel records of the period Banten is the only name to be mentioned. The year 1596 proved to be fateful for Banten, and practically for the entire archipelago.
Four Dutch ships, commanded by Cornelis de Houtman, on June 22, 1596 dropped anchor in Banten’s road stead after a voyage which had lasted 14 months, and cost the lives of almost half lasted 14 months, and cost the lives of almost half the fleet’s complement of 250 men. The survivors were the first Dutch people to set foot on Indonesian soil. They were soon followed by the English, Danish and French traders.
The fortunes of the invaders and of Banten itself, waxed and waned. Plot by plot, blockade by blockade, and one sea skirmish led to another as men fought and died in a constants struggle for economic hegemony.
The Dutch had assumed control of Banten in 1865 from their base in Batavia and had embarked on the construction of a massive fortress Fort Speelwijk, to protect their interest. Banten’s role as an independent sultanate thus was finally eclipsed.
At present, tourists can cover Banten from Jakarta in a one day trip, thanks to the new toll road connecting the capital to the area. The traffic is now quite convenient, except during the week end days.
As far as 90 km west of Jakarta, an asphalted road leads to Banten. About 2 km short of your destination, on the right hand side of the road, is the tomb of Maulana Yusup, the third ruler, who died in 1580. Nearer the present village, on the left hand side, are the remains of Istana Kaibon, a palace built for one of Banten’s princes, lived in by the mother (and guardian) of another prince, and destroyed in 1832.
Across a narrow river, and a little to the northwest, is the sprawling one hectare site of the Surosawan, the high walled and heavily fortified palace compound which was built, wrecked in a bloody civil war and rebuilt, all during the reign of Sultan Abulfatah Agung (1651-83).
On the northern side of Surosawan lie the brassy plain and the imposing white minaret (designed by a Chinese Muslim) built by Maulana Mohammad in the closing decade of 16th century.
One kilometer away to the northwest are the ruins of the fort Speelwijk, built in 1682, was extended in 1685 and in 1731, and finally abandoned by Governor General Herman Williem Daendels at the beginning of the 19th century.
More recent is a red and yellow Chinese temple opposite the entrance to Fort Speelwijk. It is probably 200 years old, but has been renovated.
The development of motels, hotels and inns are mushrooming in Banten during the last decade. Overnighters may stay in the nearby Serang, Cilegon, Merak or Carita beach, where you can find small beach hotels.
For nature lovers, including bird lovers, with a half hour boat ride from Banten to Pulau Dua, usually between March and July, an amazing variety of migratory birds arrive for a season of mating and nesting.
About 20 km northwest of Serang, at Cilegon, you can branch north to the hilly coastline around Merak and Pulau Rida (also known as Florida Beach) or south towards Anyer.
Cilegon is dominated by the vast Krakatau Stell Plant. This corner of java, close to the coal fields of Sumatra, has become a heavy industry area, with Cilegon, yet another expatriate enclave.
Other places of interest are Sang Hyang island, a seldom visited 700 hectare island, an hour to the northwest of Anyer, is almost deserted, where no accommodation available thought it’s an exciting and rewarding experience.
Back on the mainland it’s about a 6 km ru south from the Anyer motel to Karang Bolong, a huge stand of rock which forms a natural archway from the land through to the sea.
You can enjoy the inland route through Serang and Pandeglang, a 63 km drive to Labuhan coast which offers launches for trips to Krakatau and Ujung Kulon.
The sea rushed in boiled on contract with the molten rock, and then tidal waves up to 30 meters high swept the coast on voyage of destruction that claimed more than 35,000 lives.
The explosion was heard more than 3,000 km away in Australia, and blackness covered the land for 160 km around. Ash is believed to have drifted around the earth three times, producing spectacular sunsets as far away as England.
In the decades following the catastrophe, undersea volcanic activity continued, and a new cone with a gaping half crater emerged from the drowned bed of the caldera: Anak Krakatau, or Child of Krakatoa, smoldering and steaming. A son following his father’s habit. Until today Anak Krakatau is still very much active, its smoke almost seen every day of the year.
Labuhan is also the take off point for the long launch ride (more than 12 hours) to Ujung Kulon, an outstanding wildlife and nature reserve on the for southwest corner of Java.
A haven for flora and fauna lovers, Ujung Kulon is located at the westernmost tip of the island of Java, now opened for tourists, with special permit from the office of the Directorate General of Forest Protection and Nature Conservation (Direktorat Jenderal Perlindungan Hutan dan Pelestarian Alam) in Bogor.
Widely known as a conservation area, Ujung Kulon is also home to the entire remaining world population of Javan rhinos (Rhinoceros Sondaicus) and other rare and endangered species as Banteng, the Java gibbon, and deer. Together with the Komodo island, in 1992 Ujung Kulon was officiated by the United Nation Education, Social and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) as a world Natural Heritage.
Ujung Kulon, around 30.000 hectares in size, is only a faction of the 143 million hectare of Indonesia tropical forest. Indonesia holds the rank third after Brazil and Zaire in tropical forest in the world.
Both conservations and environmentalist believe that tourism could damage Ujung Kulon fragile ecosystem, academically they question should Ujung Kulon be kept as a carefully protected nature laboratory, accessed by only a few chosen research worker, or should the public be permitted to visit and enjoy it, subject to conditions.
Experts argue that limited tourism should be encouraged. In the long run conservation will be better served through cultivating public awareness of environmental values and appreciation of nature by visits to such areas like Ujung Kulon, than by keeping them sacrosanct.
Restrictions imposed on tourists to Ujung Kulon include: visitors are permitted to walk freely on Peucang Island, off the coast of Ujung Kulon, if accompanied by a guide. This is primarily a safety measure, in case of encounters with rhinoceros. No fishing is permitted within 500 m of the shoreline.
Such restrictions are necessary as Ujung Kulon is one of the most valuable and best known conservation areas in the Southeast Asia and is a obvious candidate for development as a tourist attraction, being only 140 km by air from Jakarta.
However, in developing Ujung Kulon, conservation should take priority over tourism or any other interest. Since the main objective of Ujung Kulon’s management is to keep intact the lowland rain forest, coastal and other ecosystem found within Ujung Kulon and its surrounding island.
Selection of side and construction of an airstrip, either on the mainland outside to park or on the Panaitan Island is very carefully planned.
Limiting visitors to small group, each to be accompanied by a guide and keeping to recognized tracks. Establishing nature trails, self guided walks through areas scenic beauty or unusual interest, clearly marked, so that the visitor can find his or her own way without getting lost.
Within the larger Badui community, near the southern most boundary, are there villages inhabited by 400 Badui Dalam (Inner Baduin People). They are completely surrounded by a protective of buffer zone of Badui Luar (Outer Badui People) and deliberately shun all contact with the world beyond their group.
Each of the three Badui Dalam villages is headed by a puun, a hereditary spiritual and temporal leader whose person is scared. The land within Badui Dalam territory is also regarded as scared, and outsiders, including the Badui Luar, are forbidden to till it or settle there.
The Badui Dalam are not permitted to wear any cloth but the rough white home spun they weave themselves. They may not cultivate cash crops, use fertilizers, eat any four legged animal, domesticated or use any medicines except their own herbal preparations. Their agriculture is limited to lading, or shifting cultivation, which relies on the natural fertility of newly cleared ground, seldom productive for more than two seasons.
Similar taboos and restrictions apply to the larger group of Badui Luar, but are less rigidly observed. Although obliged to wear only their homespun blue black cloth, and forbidden to wear trousers, some of the Luar people now proudly sport the colorful sarongs and shirts favored by their Sundanese neighbors.
Their religion is a strange blend of animism and a certain Islamic elements, with some original ideas thrown in for good measure. The ultimate authority is vested in Gusti Nu Maha Suci, who originally sent Nabi (prophet) Adam into the world to lead the life of Badui, and Nabi Mohammad to organize the world’s religious affairs.
The Badui’s most hallowed ground lies on Gunung Kendeng, in a place called Arca Damas, which is annually visited (and only) by puun of the inner communities.
The lives of Badui are hardly idyllic, though the beauty of the country in which they live suggest another Sangri-la. Many hardship abound, there is great vitality in their angklung music, the sound of rattled bamboo tubes is often accompanied by deeper tones of goatskin drums, and in sonorous rhythms beaten out on hollow rice pounding logs.
The Badui also have a formidable reputation as medicine men, and their herbal preparation are eagerly snapped up by country and city dwellers alike, and many itinerant tukang, with the streets of Jakarta as their beat, claim to be genuine badui.
If you are really interested, it is possible to visit some of the villages on the northern rim of the Badui area. The most easily accessible is Desa Kaduketug, which is a good 4 hour hike from Luwidar (24 km south of Rangkasbitung). A permission should be obtained from the Kantor Kabupaten in Rangkasbitung, beforehand. Agaphos travel agent in Jakarta can assist your trip to Badui area.
For its world famous tropical botanic garden Bogor worth a one or two hour visit. Though only 200 km above sea level Bogor is cooler than Jakarta (54 km to the north), and it is easy to imagine the pleasure of Governor General Baron Gustaff van Imhoff, when in 1744 he left Batavia’s malarial plain to reach this spot.
Nothing now remains of Buitenzorg (Free of Care), the country house he built, through the present palace was built on the same site in 1856, and from 1870 to 1942 was the official permanent residence of the Governor General of the Dutch East Indies.
In the years following independence the palace and in particular a small pavilion within the palace grounds became a favorite haunt of the late President Sukarno. The palace still contains a large part of the huge art collection which he amassed, and is close to the public, though it can be visited, if you make arrangements through a good travel agent.
Kebun Raya, as the locals call it originally surrounded the palace, now separated by a fence, is open every day, and on Sundays and public holidays become Jakarta’s playground.
Giant Victoria Amazonica (the water lilies) sit on tranquil ponds and Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower, hailing from Sumatra opens its meter wide bloom in Bogor each October.
The gardens were officially opened as ‘Land Plantentuin’ in 1817, and gained international repute during the 19th century for their range of botanic specimens and for research into such cash crops as tea, cassava, tobacco and cinchona. Although oil palm was not developed commercially in Southeast Asia until this century, a small plaque identifies the oldest and probably the tallest oil palm in the region, brought from the west coast of Africa in 1848.
Although the research station and once great orchid gardens are shuttered and almost forgotten, the thousands of tree species from throughout the world planted in these gardens during the last 176 years have grown to stately splendor under the tropical sun.
Beyond the top of the high pass the descent opens up a vista of pines and conifers on steep hill sides. Nestling amongst the trees on the more gentle slope are dozens of hotels and guest houses.
Here the temperature is cooler than Bogor, and the Dutch planted many trees suitable to the temperate climate, that now grow side by side with great tree ferns and tropical epiphytes. To climb Gunung Gede it is advisable to take a guide.
Cipanas, not far from Cibodas, is famous for its hot springs. Governor General van Imhoff, that indefatigable traveler of the 1740s, commended the healing properties of its waters and established a health resort there that was heavily patronized despite the 4 days bone shaking ride from Batavia. On the outskirts of the town stands a quaint little palace with elegant wrought iron columns and deep, low spreading eaves which marry the styles of a classical Javanese pendopo and a Victorian folly. Once part of the health resort, it is now a seldom used country house for the President.
The road south from Bogor follows a winding route over the pass between Gunung Salak (2,211 meter) and Pangrango (3,022 m), where the valleys and hillsides are a lush garden of rubber trees, tea plantation and terraced paddies fields.
One of the most appealing are the unspoiled fishing along the coast of Pelabuhan Ratu. From the village of Pelabuhan Ratu, past a series of small, pleasant weekend bungalow hotels, the road follows the seashore through handsome natural forest to the site of the Samudra Beach Hotel. The hotel is generally heavily booked at weekends, but on weekdays it is quite and restful.
The beach is pretty, the surfs treacherous, and unpredictable. Many people, ignoring the admonitory legend of Nyai Roro Kidul (Queen of the Southern Ocean), have discovered to their cost that swimming in the ocean dangerous, so it is better to enjoy the hotel pool.
Five km west of the hotel, at Karang Hawu, a towering cliff looks out over a tangled mass of rocky reefs. Farther west is the tiny fishing village of Cisolok where a hot spring gushes forth from a small river bed.
Heading east from Pelabuhan Ratu in the direction of Bandung and Central Java the best route goes through Sukabumi. The attractive drive winds through hilly country.
The distance between Puncak and Bandung is around 120 km. further from Cipanas the country changes very abruptly. Terraced hillsides, plains of paddies fields and forest of pine trees give way to massive limestone hills.
Along the way through Cianjur, between Puncak and Bandung, there are some pottery stalls and kilns producing bricks from limestone mined from the nearby.
You have some alternatives of means of transportation to bring you from Jakarta to Bandung. By air is only half an hour flight. Overland, either through Puncak or Cikampek and Purwakarta, you can use a public bus or by train from Gambir on the east side of Medan Merdeka, or Kota railway station near the Taman Fatahilah.
Both overland routes through Puncak and Cikampek are now mostly provided with toll express way cutting the journey down to less than 4 hour drive.
Rapidly acquired importance as a commercial and educational centre, the city is very proud of its Institut Teknologi Bandung (Bandung Institute of Technology), where Sukarno, later became the first President of the Republic, received his degree in civil engineering in 1926.
Bandung is still the pilgrimage point for nostalgic Dutch visitors, and seems to hold a spot for closer to the Dutch than most of the towns of Java. Many prominent Indonesian artists received their initial training in ITB.
Among the favorite local pastime is to ride past ITB to Dago Tea House, where you can enjoy the cool late afternoon breezes from the highlands north of the city, and appreciate the beauty of both the city and inhabitants.
Babakan Siliwangi is the first and most probably best with local style restaurant in Bandung. In this updated version of traditional Sundanese cuisine, one choose a live fish from the pond at the entrance, then retire to a table set up in an open pavilion while your fish is cleaned and grilled over open coals.
Bandung is also proud of its several museums, including a military one reserved for the history and exploits of the Siliwangi Division of the Army, but they are of scarce interest to the foreign tourists. A museum unique to Indonesia is found in the massive old headquarters of the office of the Geological Survey in Indonesia. It is open from 8 am until 1 pm every day except Sunday, displaying an extraordinary array of fossils, rocks, maps and some first class models of volcanoes.
In the highlands to the north of Bandung you will find hot springs and a volcano with an asphalt access road right to the crater. From Lembang, once a mountain escaped, now a busy suburban area to Tangkuban Perahu, the famous ‘upturned Boat’ mountain and its three craters, is a steep, winding 16 km on a good but narrow road.
Early morning is the best time to see the crater on Tangkuban Perahu, when the mist swirls around nearby peaks and ridges and a glancing ray of sun turns it to quicksilver. The vegetation is harsh and scrubby, complementing the dormant threat of the fast from dead volcano. Head back down the road from Tangkuban Perahu, turn left at the tollgate and you will find Ciater about 7 km further on.
Closer to Lembang are the Maribaya Hot Springs (4 km east). Trimly landscaped, its small park is a glory of hillocks, cascades, swings and slides, pools, streams and bridges.
For those who love contemporary and special interest, among them is Cibaduyut, only 4-5 km eastward from Bandung where you can find anywhere in the world. The second is Cihampelas, (within the city of Bandung) with lots of jeans shops complete with other readymade dresses, all locally made.
Sundanese culture, according to the experts and laypeople, is less refined than the light court culture of Central Java, and it is characterized by an earthiness which is often lacking further east.
Although the best place to experience Sunda dance and music is the hundreds of highlands villages, Bandung also presents many of these varieties. Among them is Jaipongan, a popular folk dance started in early 1970s in seedy night clubs and hostess bars. Today Jaipongan is also performed in other regions of Indonesia.
In West Java wayang golek is preferred to the wayang kulit or shadow plays, although both forms feature well known stories from the Ramayana and Mahabharata cycles. Unlike the flat leather figures of central Java, wayang golek are three dimensional wooden figures, brightly painted and clothed in rich fabric.
Angklung, a popular Sundanese musical form, may be heard at almost all the hotels and around Bandung. Originally tuned to a five note scale and played on ceremonial occasions only, angklung is now more often heard in western octaves, but the effects in their scale especially when the angklung is accompanied by the Sunda flute (the suling) are ultimately beautiful.
Most tourists entering Indonesia through Jakarta usually continued their travel straight to Central Java and Yogyakarta, and even further on to Bali.
This however, is an unfair treatment to west Java, Tanah Parahyangan or the Parahyangan Land. This province is rich in green tourism object. For the eco tourists West Java is very proud of its National Park of Ujung Kulon, where the Java Rhino (Rhinoceros Sondaicus) still roams in the western most tip of Java.
You still have many other places to visit here in West Java. The Banten region, where you can still find the remnants of the Banten sultanate. Or Pangandaran, a beach resort very near and adjacent to a lush green nature conservation. In Bogor you can make a short visit to its Botanic Garden, with the most complete tropical floral collection in the world.
On top of what you can visit in the whole province of West Java is it capital, the ‘Paris of Java’, the nickname during the Dutch colonial era. West Java is also known as Tanah Sunda (of Sunda Land), which very proud of its Gede Pangrango, twin mountains covered with lush vegetation, the most loved domain for youth tourists who are fond of mountains climbing.
Though Puncak on your from Jakarta, one can enjoy a variety of landscape through the long and winding road up to the mountains, where tea plantation and green mountainous beauty are typical vistas not often found in the other parts of Java.
Since hundreds of years through its history, the Sundanese have developed a strong culture of their own, even predates the great empires of the East. Historically West Java can be retraced through its earliest written record found in West Java, an inscribed stone, dating from around 415 A.D., written in Sanskrit. It records the royal presence of Purnawarman, the king of Tarumanegara, which suggest an Indianised ruler, one of the first in Indonesia. Though there is a wide gap in West Java’s recorded history for the next thousand years.
As the Islamic city ports gained control of the northern coast, from Pasuruan in the east to Banten in the west, Pajajaran emerged for a brief moment of history’s spotlight. The kingdom of Pajajaran was located in the hills around Bogor, with a secondary town and port at Sunda Kelapa. Most probably the rulers of Pajajaran were forced inland by the growth of the Muslim coastal states during the 15th century.
Within a hundred years the kingdom was destroyed, over run by the forces of the Banten Sultanate. The history of West Java, however, has left few tracks on the rugged landscape, adding very little to the list of tourist attractions.
Sunda remains a place for nature lovers and backpackers, with now ready to cater upper and middle class tourist, who usually prefer to stay in first class deluxe hotels.
- BANTEN, The Virgin Destination of Indonesia.
To attract more tourists, the so called Banten Festival is held annually. For the first time it was held on August 27 to September 3, 1994. Hoping that foreign and domestic tourists can be lured to enjoy the fascinating atmosphere of Banten, the westernmost region of West Java, the festival takes place in the old Banten complexes, the Carita Beach, the Ujung Kulon Beach, with various activities including arts and cultures, allegorical parade, traditional boat race, sea festivals, beach volley ball, Carita fun bike, Badui cross country, Banten overland and Krakatau tour.
At the old Banten area we can still find the archaeological remains originating from the Islamic Banten kingdom from the 16th to the 18th centuries. The Banten historical artifacts have been collected for historical research and archaeological excavations have been organized in the front yard of the Surosowan palace.
Since the middle of the 17th century, Banten was penetrated by the Dutch influence. During the 17th century, Banten experienced trade and cultural progress. Many foreigners, mainly others Asians, have had relationship with the Banten kingdom.
In 1616 the Gujaratees became the liaison officials between the foreign traders and the Banten kingdom. At that time, every year many Chinese boats harboring at Banten. Generally they operated barter trading with pepper as the main means of exchange.
During the 18th and 19th centuries Banten was very much concerned and disagreed to the way the Dutch deal with the Sultanate of Banten. As its consequence the fighters and guirrellas of Banten based in the forest areas in the southern part of Banten ambushed the Dutch troops going to Batavia to transport spices and other trade commodities from Banten.
For around 400 years, Banten was a princely state of great wealth and splendor. The name Banten still covers that great area, but the glory has long faded. The present day town of Banten, far from being a splendid city, is now little more than a few picturesque ruins, masses of coconut palms and strings of shabby, tiny villages lining tidal creeks and canals.
The first Europeans to visit Banten were the Portuguese, arriving early in the 16th century when the great Javanese commander Faletehan under the command of the Sultan of Demak, was completing his conquest of the area. Banten rapidly grew stronger and important, defeating and finally dispersing the Hindu forces of Padjajaran who sought refuge from Islam in the rugged hills and mountains to the southwest of Bogor, and around the port of Sunda Kelapa.
The grip of Banten on the enter port pepper trade was the source of its wealth, some of the pepper grew within Banten, but most came from Sumatra, and by Portuguese were granted limited trading rights, more than 1,500 tons of the precious spice were living Banten every year in ships bound for India and China. This was Banten’s short glory, its brief century long became a small part of the Indonesian history.
Banten at that time was almost synonymous with the archipelago, and in many maps and European travel records of the period Banten is the only name to be mentioned. The year 1596 proved to be fateful for Banten, and practically for the entire archipelago.
Four Dutch ships, commanded by Cornelis de Houtman, on June 22, 1596 dropped anchor in Banten’s road stead after a voyage which had lasted 14 months, and cost the lives of almost half lasted 14 months, and cost the lives of almost half the fleet’s complement of 250 men. The survivors were the first Dutch people to set foot on Indonesian soil. They were soon followed by the English, Danish and French traders.
The fortunes of the invaders and of Banten itself, waxed and waned. Plot by plot, blockade by blockade, and one sea skirmish led to another as men fought and died in a constants struggle for economic hegemony.
The Dutch had assumed control of Banten in 1865 from their base in Batavia and had embarked on the construction of a massive fortress Fort Speelwijk, to protect their interest. Banten’s role as an independent sultanate thus was finally eclipsed.
At present, tourists can cover Banten from Jakarta in a one day trip, thanks to the new toll road connecting the capital to the area. The traffic is now quite convenient, except during the week end days.
As far as 90 km west of Jakarta, an asphalted road leads to Banten. About 2 km short of your destination, on the right hand side of the road, is the tomb of Maulana Yusup, the third ruler, who died in 1580. Nearer the present village, on the left hand side, are the remains of Istana Kaibon, a palace built for one of Banten’s princes, lived in by the mother (and guardian) of another prince, and destroyed in 1832.
Across a narrow river, and a little to the northwest, is the sprawling one hectare site of the Surosawan, the high walled and heavily fortified palace compound which was built, wrecked in a bloody civil war and rebuilt, all during the reign of Sultan Abulfatah Agung (1651-83).
On the northern side of Surosawan lie the brassy plain and the imposing white minaret (designed by a Chinese Muslim) built by Maulana Mohammad in the closing decade of 16th century.
One kilometer away to the northwest are the ruins of the fort Speelwijk, built in 1682, was extended in 1685 and in 1731, and finally abandoned by Governor General Herman Williem Daendels at the beginning of the 19th century.
More recent is a red and yellow Chinese temple opposite the entrance to Fort Speelwijk. It is probably 200 years old, but has been renovated.
The development of motels, hotels and inns are mushrooming in Banten during the last decade. Overnighters may stay in the nearby Serang, Cilegon, Merak or Carita beach, where you can find small beach hotels.
For nature lovers, including bird lovers, with a half hour boat ride from Banten to Pulau Dua, usually between March and July, an amazing variety of migratory birds arrive for a season of mating and nesting.
About 20 km northwest of Serang, at Cilegon, you can branch north to the hilly coastline around Merak and Pulau Rida (also known as Florida Beach) or south towards Anyer.
Cilegon is dominated by the vast Krakatau Stell Plant. This corner of java, close to the coal fields of Sumatra, has become a heavy industry area, with Cilegon, yet another expatriate enclave.
Other places of interest are Sang Hyang island, a seldom visited 700 hectare island, an hour to the northwest of Anyer, is almost deserted, where no accommodation available thought it’s an exciting and rewarding experience.
Back on the mainland it’s about a 6 km ru south from the Anyer motel to Karang Bolong, a huge stand of rock which forms a natural archway from the land through to the sea.
You can enjoy the inland route through Serang and Pandeglang, a 63 km drive to Labuhan coast which offers launches for trips to Krakatau and Ujung Kulon.
- KRAKATOA
The sea rushed in boiled on contract with the molten rock, and then tidal waves up to 30 meters high swept the coast on voyage of destruction that claimed more than 35,000 lives.
The explosion was heard more than 3,000 km away in Australia, and blackness covered the land for 160 km around. Ash is believed to have drifted around the earth three times, producing spectacular sunsets as far away as England.
In the decades following the catastrophe, undersea volcanic activity continued, and a new cone with a gaping half crater emerged from the drowned bed of the caldera: Anak Krakatau, or Child of Krakatoa, smoldering and steaming. A son following his father’s habit. Until today Anak Krakatau is still very much active, its smoke almost seen every day of the year.
Labuhan is also the take off point for the long launch ride (more than 12 hours) to Ujung Kulon, an outstanding wildlife and nature reserve on the for southwest corner of Java.
- UJUNG KULON
A haven for flora and fauna lovers, Ujung Kulon is located at the westernmost tip of the island of Java, now opened for tourists, with special permit from the office of the Directorate General of Forest Protection and Nature Conservation (Direktorat Jenderal Perlindungan Hutan dan Pelestarian Alam) in Bogor.Widely known as a conservation area, Ujung Kulon is also home to the entire remaining world population of Javan rhinos (Rhinoceros Sondaicus) and other rare and endangered species as Banteng, the Java gibbon, and deer. Together with the Komodo island, in 1992 Ujung Kulon was officiated by the United Nation Education, Social and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) as a world Natural Heritage.
Ujung Kulon, around 30.000 hectares in size, is only a faction of the 143 million hectare of Indonesia tropical forest. Indonesia holds the rank third after Brazil and Zaire in tropical forest in the world.
Both conservations and environmentalist believe that tourism could damage Ujung Kulon fragile ecosystem, academically they question should Ujung Kulon be kept as a carefully protected nature laboratory, accessed by only a few chosen research worker, or should the public be permitted to visit and enjoy it, subject to conditions.
Experts argue that limited tourism should be encouraged. In the long run conservation will be better served through cultivating public awareness of environmental values and appreciation of nature by visits to such areas like Ujung Kulon, than by keeping them sacrosanct.
Restrictions imposed on tourists to Ujung Kulon include: visitors are permitted to walk freely on Peucang Island, off the coast of Ujung Kulon, if accompanied by a guide. This is primarily a safety measure, in case of encounters with rhinoceros. No fishing is permitted within 500 m of the shoreline.
Such restrictions are necessary as Ujung Kulon is one of the most valuable and best known conservation areas in the Southeast Asia and is a obvious candidate for development as a tourist attraction, being only 140 km by air from Jakarta.
However, in developing Ujung Kulon, conservation should take priority over tourism or any other interest. Since the main objective of Ujung Kulon’s management is to keep intact the lowland rain forest, coastal and other ecosystem found within Ujung Kulon and its surrounding island.
Selection of side and construction of an airstrip, either on the mainland outside to park or on the Panaitan Island is very carefully planned.
Limiting visitors to small group, each to be accompanied by a guide and keeping to recognized tracks. Establishing nature trails, self guided walks through areas scenic beauty or unusual interest, clearly marked, so that the visitor can find his or her own way without getting lost.
- THE BADUIS
Within the larger Badui community, near the southern most boundary, are there villages inhabited by 400 Badui Dalam (Inner Baduin People). They are completely surrounded by a protective of buffer zone of Badui Luar (Outer Badui People) and deliberately shun all contact with the world beyond their group.
Each of the three Badui Dalam villages is headed by a puun, a hereditary spiritual and temporal leader whose person is scared. The land within Badui Dalam territory is also regarded as scared, and outsiders, including the Badui Luar, are forbidden to till it or settle there.
The Badui Dalam are not permitted to wear any cloth but the rough white home spun they weave themselves. They may not cultivate cash crops, use fertilizers, eat any four legged animal, domesticated or use any medicines except their own herbal preparations. Their agriculture is limited to lading, or shifting cultivation, which relies on the natural fertility of newly cleared ground, seldom productive for more than two seasons.
Similar taboos and restrictions apply to the larger group of Badui Luar, but are less rigidly observed. Although obliged to wear only their homespun blue black cloth, and forbidden to wear trousers, some of the Luar people now proudly sport the colorful sarongs and shirts favored by their Sundanese neighbors.
Their religion is a strange blend of animism and a certain Islamic elements, with some original ideas thrown in for good measure. The ultimate authority is vested in Gusti Nu Maha Suci, who originally sent Nabi (prophet) Adam into the world to lead the life of Badui, and Nabi Mohammad to organize the world’s religious affairs.
The Badui’s most hallowed ground lies on Gunung Kendeng, in a place called Arca Damas, which is annually visited (and only) by puun of the inner communities.
The lives of Badui are hardly idyllic, though the beauty of the country in which they live suggest another Sangri-la. Many hardship abound, there is great vitality in their angklung music, the sound of rattled bamboo tubes is often accompanied by deeper tones of goatskin drums, and in sonorous rhythms beaten out on hollow rice pounding logs.
The Badui also have a formidable reputation as medicine men, and their herbal preparation are eagerly snapped up by country and city dwellers alike, and many itinerant tukang, with the streets of Jakarta as their beat, claim to be genuine badui.
If you are really interested, it is possible to visit some of the villages on the northern rim of the Badui area. The most easily accessible is Desa Kaduketug, which is a good 4 hour hike from Luwidar (24 km south of Rangkasbitung). A permission should be obtained from the Kantor Kabupaten in Rangkasbitung, beforehand. Agaphos travel agent in Jakarta can assist your trip to Badui area.
- BOGOR BOTANIC GARDEN
For its world famous tropical botanic garden Bogor worth a one or two hour visit. Though only 200 km above sea level Bogor is cooler than Jakarta (54 km to the north), and it is easy to imagine the pleasure of Governor General Baron Gustaff van Imhoff, when in 1744 he left Batavia’s malarial plain to reach this spot.
Nothing now remains of Buitenzorg (Free of Care), the country house he built, through the present palace was built on the same site in 1856, and from 1870 to 1942 was the official permanent residence of the Governor General of the Dutch East Indies.
In the years following independence the palace and in particular a small pavilion within the palace grounds became a favorite haunt of the late President Sukarno. The palace still contains a large part of the huge art collection which he amassed, and is close to the public, though it can be visited, if you make arrangements through a good travel agent.
Kebun Raya, as the locals call it originally surrounded the palace, now separated by a fence, is open every day, and on Sundays and public holidays become Jakarta’s playground.
Giant Victoria Amazonica (the water lilies) sit on tranquil ponds and Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower, hailing from Sumatra opens its meter wide bloom in Bogor each October.
The gardens were officially opened as ‘Land Plantentuin’ in 1817, and gained international repute during the 19th century for their range of botanic specimens and for research into such cash crops as tea, cassava, tobacco and cinchona. Although oil palm was not developed commercially in Southeast Asia until this century, a small plaque identifies the oldest and probably the tallest oil palm in the region, brought from the west coast of Africa in 1848.
Although the research station and once great orchid gardens are shuttered and almost forgotten, the thousands of tree species from throughout the world planted in these gardens during the last 176 years have grown to stately splendor under the tropical sun.
- PUNCAK
Beyond the top of the high pass the descent opens up a vista of pines and conifers on steep hill sides. Nestling amongst the trees on the more gentle slope are dozens of hotels and guest houses.
- CIBODAS
Here the temperature is cooler than Bogor, and the Dutch planted many trees suitable to the temperate climate, that now grow side by side with great tree ferns and tropical epiphytes. To climb Gunung Gede it is advisable to take a guide.
Cipanas, not far from Cibodas, is famous for its hot springs. Governor General van Imhoff, that indefatigable traveler of the 1740s, commended the healing properties of its waters and established a health resort there that was heavily patronized despite the 4 days bone shaking ride from Batavia. On the outskirts of the town stands a quaint little palace with elegant wrought iron columns and deep, low spreading eaves which marry the styles of a classical Javanese pendopo and a Victorian folly. Once part of the health resort, it is now a seldom used country house for the President.
- PELABUHAN RATU
The road south from Bogor follows a winding route over the pass between Gunung Salak (2,211 meter) and Pangrango (3,022 m), where the valleys and hillsides are a lush garden of rubber trees, tea plantation and terraced paddies fields.
One of the most appealing are the unspoiled fishing along the coast of Pelabuhan Ratu. From the village of Pelabuhan Ratu, past a series of small, pleasant weekend bungalow hotels, the road follows the seashore through handsome natural forest to the site of the Samudra Beach Hotel. The hotel is generally heavily booked at weekends, but on weekdays it is quite and restful.
The beach is pretty, the surfs treacherous, and unpredictable. Many people, ignoring the admonitory legend of Nyai Roro Kidul (Queen of the Southern Ocean), have discovered to their cost that swimming in the ocean dangerous, so it is better to enjoy the hotel pool.
Five km west of the hotel, at Karang Hawu, a towering cliff looks out over a tangled mass of rocky reefs. Farther west is the tiny fishing village of Cisolok where a hot spring gushes forth from a small river bed.
Heading east from Pelabuhan Ratu in the direction of Bandung and Central Java the best route goes through Sukabumi. The attractive drive winds through hilly country.
The distance between Puncak and Bandung is around 120 km. further from Cipanas the country changes very abruptly. Terraced hillsides, plains of paddies fields and forest of pine trees give way to massive limestone hills.
Along the way through Cianjur, between Puncak and Bandung, there are some pottery stalls and kilns producing bricks from limestone mined from the nearby.
You have some alternatives of means of transportation to bring you from Jakarta to Bandung. By air is only half an hour flight. Overland, either through Puncak or Cikampek and Purwakarta, you can use a public bus or by train from Gambir on the east side of Medan Merdeka, or Kota railway station near the Taman Fatahilah.
Both overland routes through Puncak and Cikampek are now mostly provided with toll express way cutting the journey down to less than 4 hour drive.
- BANDUNG
Rapidly acquired importance as a commercial and educational centre, the city is very proud of its Institut Teknologi Bandung (Bandung Institute of Technology), where Sukarno, later became the first President of the Republic, received his degree in civil engineering in 1926.
Bandung is still the pilgrimage point for nostalgic Dutch visitors, and seems to hold a spot for closer to the Dutch than most of the towns of Java. Many prominent Indonesian artists received their initial training in ITB.
Among the favorite local pastime is to ride past ITB to Dago Tea House, where you can enjoy the cool late afternoon breezes from the highlands north of the city, and appreciate the beauty of both the city and inhabitants.
Babakan Siliwangi is the first and most probably best with local style restaurant in Bandung. In this updated version of traditional Sundanese cuisine, one choose a live fish from the pond at the entrance, then retire to a table set up in an open pavilion while your fish is cleaned and grilled over open coals.
Bandung is also proud of its several museums, including a military one reserved for the history and exploits of the Siliwangi Division of the Army, but they are of scarce interest to the foreign tourists. A museum unique to Indonesia is found in the massive old headquarters of the office of the Geological Survey in Indonesia. It is open from 8 am until 1 pm every day except Sunday, displaying an extraordinary array of fossils, rocks, maps and some first class models of volcanoes.
In the highlands to the north of Bandung you will find hot springs and a volcano with an asphalt access road right to the crater. From Lembang, once a mountain escaped, now a busy suburban area to Tangkuban Perahu, the famous ‘upturned Boat’ mountain and its three craters, is a steep, winding 16 km on a good but narrow road.
Early morning is the best time to see the crater on Tangkuban Perahu, when the mist swirls around nearby peaks and ridges and a glancing ray of sun turns it to quicksilver. The vegetation is harsh and scrubby, complementing the dormant threat of the fast from dead volcano. Head back down the road from Tangkuban Perahu, turn left at the tollgate and you will find Ciater about 7 km further on.
Closer to Lembang are the Maribaya Hot Springs (4 km east). Trimly landscaped, its small park is a glory of hillocks, cascades, swings and slides, pools, streams and bridges.
For those who love contemporary and special interest, among them is Cibaduyut, only 4-5 km eastward from Bandung where you can find anywhere in the world. The second is Cihampelas, (within the city of Bandung) with lots of jeans shops complete with other readymade dresses, all locally made.
Sundanese culture, according to the experts and laypeople, is less refined than the light court culture of Central Java, and it is characterized by an earthiness which is often lacking further east.
Although the best place to experience Sunda dance and music is the hundreds of highlands villages, Bandung also presents many of these varieties. Among them is Jaipongan, a popular folk dance started in early 1970s in seedy night clubs and hostess bars. Today Jaipongan is also performed in other regions of Indonesia.
In West Java wayang golek is preferred to the wayang kulit or shadow plays, although both forms feature well known stories from the Ramayana and Mahabharata cycles. Unlike the flat leather figures of central Java, wayang golek are three dimensional wooden figures, brightly painted and clothed in rich fabric.
Angklung, a popular Sundanese musical form, may be heard at almost all the hotels and around Bandung. Originally tuned to a five note scale and played on ceremonial occasions only, angklung is now more often heard in western octaves, but the effects in their scale especially when the angklung is accompanied by the Sunda flute (the suling) are ultimately beautiful.